Winter in Tbilisi transforms the Georgian capital into a charming holiday scene. Festive lights adorn the streets, the scent of spiced wine wafts through the air, and carols can be heard in all the stores. However, Christmas in Tbilisi offers a unique experience that may surprise tourists.
Due to the mix of Orthodox and Western traditions Christmas in Tbilisi is an extended holiday season, combining traditional customs with modern celebrations. Festivities begin in mid-December and continue into January, offering visitors even more opportunity to experience Georgian holiday spirit.
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A Different Kind of Christmas: Georgian Style
While much of the world is taking down decorations and nursing New Year’s hangovers on January 1st, here in Tbilisi holiday spirit continues on. In Georgia Orthodox Christmas falls on January 7th, following the Julian calendar still used by the Georgian Orthodox Church. This means that the cities decorations and Christmas markets are open longer and the festive season continues on.
The holiday timeline in Georgia looks something like this:
- December 31st: New Year’s Eve (the main gift-giving celebration)
- January 1st-2nd: New Year’s Day and Bedoba (Day of Luck)
- January 7th: Orthodox Christmas
- January 14th: Old New Year
- January 19th: Orthodox Epiphany (marking the end of the season)
The prolonged holiday season reflects Georgia’s complex history. During the Soviet era, religious observances were discouraged, leading to a shift towards secular celebrations. This is why many Georgians celebrate Christmas on New Years Eve instead of the 7th January.
Tbilisi’s Christmas Wonderland: A Feast for the Senses
As you wander through Tbilisi during this magical time, you’ll be greeted by a city that has fully embraced the holiday spirit. The heart of the city, generally around Rustaveli Avenue, and extending into other suburbs like Vake and Saburtalo shines with stunning light displays draped across the main streets that transform the night into a glittering fairyland.
The true heart of the celebration, however, can be found in the Christmas markets. Orbeliani Square, and Dedaena Park transform into winter wonderlands, filled with the aroma of freshly baked goods, mulled wine, and the sound of traditional carols.
As you explore the stalls, you’ll find a treasure trove of unique Georgian handicrafts and souvenirs. Intricately designed cloisonné enamel jewelry, a craft dating back to the Middle Ages, sits alongside colorful hand-woven textiles, as well as hand made cookies and snacks like local cheeses to sample as you wander around or take home to stick under the tree. Of course being Georgia – you will find wine makers giving out samples of their wine enticing you to buy a tasty Georgian wine for your celebrations.
For something incredibly local – don’t miss the chance to pick up a Chichilaki – Georgia’s unique take on the Christmas tree. Made from dried hazelnut or walnut branches and curled to resemble a small coniferous tree, these traditional decorations are often adorned with fruits and sweets, symbolizing hopes for a fruitful year ahead.
Celebrating Like a Local: Georgian Christmas Traditions
To truly experience Christmas in Tbilisi, you need to immerse yourself in the local traditions. The celebrations kick off on New Year’s Eve, which in Georgia is the equivalent of Western Christmas Eve in terms of gift-giving and family gatherings.
New Year’s Eve: A Spectacular Start
As December 31st approaches, the city buzzes with anticipation. Families gather for elaborate supras (feasts), exchanging gifts and toasts as midnight nears. But the real spectacle begins as the clock strikes twelve. Step outside, and you’ll witness an incredible amateur fireworks display lighting up the sky from balconies across the city. It’s a breathtaking sight that captures the joyous spirit of the Georgian people and their love for celebration. Is it a little insane – YES! Is it still lots of fun – also YES!
For the best views of this fireworks show, head to one of Tbilisi’s elevated points. Betlemi Rise is an easy to get to down town location with incredible views. You could also head to The Narikala Fortress, offering a panoramic view of the city as it erupts in light and color. Alternatively, make your way up the funicular to Mtatsminda park area for another stunning vantage point.
Bedoba: Day of Luck
January 2nd marks Bedoba, or the Day of Luck. Georgians believe that the way you spend this day sets the tone for the entire year ahead. It’s a day filled with positivity, where people try to surround themselves with good food, good company, and good cheer. As a traveler, embrace this tradition by starting your day with a delicious Georgian meal, perhaps at a local restaurant serving traditional local dishes.
Orthodox Christmas: Alilo Parade
On January 7th, the day of Orthodox Christmas, Tbilisi comes alive with the sound of carols and the sight of colorful processions. The centerpiece of this day is the Alilo Parade, a tradition revived in the 1990s after years of suppression during the Soviet era.
Make your way to Rustaveli Avenue early to secure a good viewing spot. The parade typically starts around 1 PM, beginning at Rose Revolution Square. You’ll witness a spectacular procession featuring participants in traditional costumes carrying religious icons, crosses, and Georgian flags. Children dressed as angels and shepherds walk alongside, while priests bless the crowd with holy water.
The air fills with the harmonious sounds of “Alilo,” a traditional Georgian Christmas carol. The word “Alilo” is derived from “Alleluia,” and the song’s lyrics speak of the birth of Christ and the joy it brings. Even if you don’t understand the words, the melody will undoubtedly move you.
As the parade progresses, participants collect gifts and donations from spectators. These offerings, usually food and clothing, are later distributed to those in need, embodying the spirit of charity that is central to the Georgian Christmas tradition.
Chichilaki: The Georgian Christmas Tree
No discussion of Georgian Christmas traditions would be complete without mentioning the Chichilaki. These unique Christmas trees, made from dried hazelnut or walnut branches, are a symbol of hope and renewal in Georgian culture.
Crafting a Chichilaki is an art form in itself. The branches are carefully shaved to create a tree-like shape with curled “branches” resembling a long, white beard. This resemblance has earned the Chichilaki the nickname “the beard of St. Basil” (the Georgian equivalent of Santa Claus).
Traditionally, Chichilakis are decorated with small fruits and sweets, making them not just decorative but also a tasty treat for children. On January 19th, the Epiphany, these trees are ceremonially burned to symbolize the purification of the previous year’s troubles and the hope for a better year ahead.
During your visit, you’ll see Chichilakis for sale in markets and on street corners. Consider purchasing one as a unique souvenir or decoration for your accommodation – just remember to participate in the burning ceremony before you leave!
A Feast for the Senses: Georgian Holiday Cuisine
No Georgian celebration is complete without a supra – a traditional feast that can last for hours and involves numerous dishes, toasts, and of course, plenty of Georgian wine. During the holiday season, Tbilisi’s restaurants and homes alike serve up a delectable array of festive dishes that will tantalize your taste buds and warm you from the inside out.
Must-Try Holiday Dishes
- Satsivi: This rich chicken dish bathed in a creamy walnut sauce is a staple of the Georgian holiday table. The combination of tender poultry and the nutty, slightly tangy sauce is unforgettable.
- Gozinaki: A sweet treat made from caramelized walnuts and honey, Gozinaki is to Georgian Christmas what gingerbread is to Western celebrations. It’s often shaped into rounds or diamonds and served as a dessert or snack.
- Churchkhela: Often referred to as “Georgian Snickers,” this candle-shaped candy is made by dipping a string of nuts (usually walnuts or hazelnuts) into thickened grape juice. It’s chewy, sweet, and packed with energy – perfect for cold winter days.
- Khachapuri: While this cheese-filled bread is enjoyed year-round in Georgia, it’s just not a party if khachapuri isn’t on the table.
- Mtsvadi: These juicy meat skewers, usually made with pork, chicken or veal, are a must at any Georgian celebration. During the holidays, they’re often cooked over the embers of a fire, adding a smoky flavor to the tender meat.
Where to Enjoy Georgian Holiday Cuisine
For an authentic experience of Georgian holiday cuisine, consider these options:
- Restaurants: Many traditional Georgian restaurants in Tbilisi offer special holiday menus. Try Georgian House for excellent satsivi, or head to Funicular Restaurant for stunning views of the city along with your festive meal.
- Christmas Markets: The various Christmas markets around the city, particularly at First Republic Square and Orbeliani Square, offer a chance to sample a variety of holiday treats as you browse.
- Cooking Classes: For a hands-on experience, consider taking a holiday cooking class. Schools like Georgian Flavors or ElaCi Cullinary Institute sometimes offer special Christmas-themed classes.
- Home-Hosted Meals: Some tour companies and airbnb’s offer the chance to join a Georgian family for a holiday meal. This provides not just great food, but also an intimate look at Georgian holiday traditions.
Don’t forget to accompany your meal with Georgian wine. The country has an 8,000-year-old winemaking tradition, and the holidays are the perfect time to explore it. Try a glass of semi-sweet Khvanchkara, traditionally considered the favorite wine of Stalin, or warm up with some mulled wine, spiced to perfection with cinnamon, cloves, and orange zest.
Shopping for Christmas Magic in Tbilisi
Tbilisi offers numerous options for holiday shopping, whether you’re looking for gifts, decorations, or just a memento of your Georgian Christmas experience.
Dry Bridge Market
This open-air flea market is a treasure trove of traditional decorations, Soviet-era memorabilia, and unique gifts. While it operates year-round, the market takes on a special charm during the holiday season. You might find vintage Christmas ornaments, handcrafted Chichilakis, or even Soviet-era New Year’s postcards – a unique glimpse into Georgia’s past.
Dezerter Bazaar
For a more comprehensive (and chaotic) shopping experience, head to the bustling Dezerter Bazaar. This sprawling market is where many locals do their holiday shopping. Here, you can find everything from Christmas trees to traditional foods for your holiday feast. It’s a sensory overload in the best possible way, with the sights, sounds, and smells of a Georgian holiday engulfing you.
Gallery 27
If you’re looking for high-quality Georgian crafts, visit Gallery 27 on Rustaveli Avenue. This shop showcases work from some of Georgia’s best artisans, including beautiful enamel jewelry, traditional felt work, and ceramic pieces. It’s an excellent place to find a special gift or a sophisticated souvenir of your Georgian Christmas.
Fabrika
This multi-purpose space, housed in a former Soviet sewing factory, hosts a Christmas market that’s popular with Tbilisi’s young, creative crowd. Here, you’ll find work from local designers and artists, often with a modern twist on traditional Georgian motifs. The Fabrika Christmas Fair also features live music performances and carol singing, encapsulating the festive spirit of modern Tbilisi.
Carrefour Hypermarket
For those who prefer one-stop shopping, the Carrefour Hypermarket has all your holiday essentials under one roof. While it may not have the charm of the traditional markets, it’s a convenient place to stock up on decorations, gifts, and ingredients for your holiday cooking.
Embracing Georgian Christmas Traditions
As you explore Tbilisi during the holiday season, you’ll encounter several unique traditions that make a Georgian Christmas truly special.
Tovlis Babua: The Georgian Santa Claus
Keep an eye out for Tovlis Babua, Georgia’s version of Santa Claus. Known as the “Snow Grandfather,” this mythical figure is said to come down from his home in the Svaneti mountains, bringing gifts to children on New Year’s Eve.
Unlike the red-suited Santa of Western tradition, Tovlis Babua is often depicted wearing a traditional Georgian chokha (a wool coat with cartridge pouches on the chest) and a nabadi (a felt cloak). He doesn’t use reindeer, preferring to travel on foot, and he enters homes through the front door rather than the chimney.
While Tovlis Babua traditionally brings gifts on New Year’s Eve, you might spot him (or at least people dressed as him) at various holiday events around Tbilisi throughout the season.
Midnight Mass and Bell Ringing
Don’t miss the chance to attend a midnight mass at one of Tbilisi’s beautiful churches on Orthodox Christmas Eve (January 6th). The Holy Trinity Cathedral, the largest church in Georgia, offers a particularly impressive service. The solemn beauty of the liturgy, filled with the sound of traditional Georgian chants, offers a deeply moving experience that connects you to the spiritual heart of Georgian Christmas.
As midnight approaches on January 6th, you’ll hear the sound of church bells ringing across the city, announcing the birth of Christ. This beautiful tradition creates a magical atmosphere as the old year gives way to the new.
Burning the Chichilaki
As the holiday season draws to a close, join the locals in the tradition of burning the Chichilaki on January 19th, the day of Epiphany. This symbolic act represents letting go of the troubles of the old year and welcoming the new year with hope and positivity.
Many families perform this ritual at home, but you might also see public burning events in parks or squares around the city. It’s a poignant moment that marks the end of the holiday season and the beginning of a new cycle.
Musical Delights of Georgian Christmas
The holiday season in Tbilisi is filled with music, from traditional carols to classical concerts. Here are some ways to immerse yourself in the sounds of Georgian Christmas:
Traditional Carols
Listen for traditional Georgian carols like “Alilo” and “Shen Khar Venakhi” during the Alilo Parade and at various events around the city. These polyphonic songs, with their complex harmonies, are a unique feature of Georgian musical tradition.
Concerts at Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre
The Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre, a stunning 19th-century building, hosts special holiday concerts throughout the season. These might include performances of Tchaikovsky’s “The Nutcracker” ballet or concerts of Georgian and European classical music.
Street Performances
During the holiday season, you’ll often encounter impromptu performances of traditional music in the streets, particularly around the Christmas markets and in the Old Town. These performances offer a chance to experience Georgian music up close and personal.
New Year’s Eve Concerts
Many hotels and restaurants in Tbilisi host special New Year’s Eve concerts and parties. These events often feature a mix of Georgian and international music and can be a great way to ring in the New Year if you’re looking for a more structured celebration.
Practical Tips for Travelers
To make the most of your Christmas visit to Tbilisi, keep these practical tips in mind:
Dress Warmly: Tbilisi can be quite cold in winter. Pack warm clothes, including a good coat, hat, gloves, and slip proof boots.
Book Accommodation Early: The holiday season is busy in Tbilisi, especially around New Year’s Eve. Book your accommodation well in advance to secure the best options.
Learn Basic Georgian Phrases: While many people in the service industry speak some English, learning a few basic Georgian phrases will be appreciated by locals. Start with “Gilotsavt” (Merry Christmas) and “Gilotsavt Akhal Tsels” (Happy New Year).
Be Prepared for Closures: Many businesses and attractions may have limited hours or be closed on January 7th (Orthodox Christmas) and January 2nd (the day after New Year’s). Plan your activities accordingly.
Use Public Transport: Tbilisi has an efficient and inexpensive metro system, which can be a good way to get around, especially when roads are busy during holiday events.
Stay Safe During Fireworks: The New Year’s Eve fireworks in Tbilisi are spectacular but can also be unpredictable. Stay aware of your surroundings and keep a safe distance from amateur fireworks displays.
Respect Religious Customs: When visiting churches, especially during services, dress modestly and be respectful. Women may need to cover their heads in some churches.
Try Georgian Christmas Dishes: Don’t miss the opportunity to taste traditional holiday foods. Many restaurants offer special menus during this season.
Carry Cash: While many places in Tbilisi accept credit cards, some smaller vendors at Christmas markets may only accept cash. It’s good to have some Georgian Lari on hand.
Be Patient: The holiday season can be busy and sometimes chaotic. Embrace the Georgian laid-back attitude and don’t stress if things don’t always go according to plan.
Watch Your Step: Tbilisi’s streets can be icy in winter. Wear shoes with good traction and be cautious when walking, especially in hilly areas.
Join in Local Traditions: Whether it’s making a wish at midnight on New Year’s Eve or joining the Alilo parade, participating in local traditions will enrich your experience.
As the burning Chichilakis signal the end of the holiday season in Tbilisi, you’ll find yourself reflecting on a truly unique Christmas experience. From the extended celebrations spanning from December to mid-January, to the blend of religious solemnity and joyous feasting, Christmas in Tbilisi offers a window into the heart of Georgian culture.
You’ll carry with you memories of twinkling lights reflected in the Mtkvari River, the harmonious sounds of traditional carols echoing through ancient streets, and the warmth of Georgian hospitality that seems to glow even brighter during the holiday season. The taste of satsivi and the sweetness of gozinaki will linger, reminding you of festive supras shared with new friends.
So pack your warmest coat, bring your sense of wonder, and prepare for a Christmas adventure like no other. In Tbilisi, the holiday spirit isn’t just a season – it’s an unforgettable experience that will leave you longing to return to this magical city.
Gilotsavt Shoba! Merry Christmas from Tbilisi!
